Damien Pignolet's "Salades" by Ingredient

For someone whose favourite cookbooks include "The River Cottage Meat Book" by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, "Cooking on the Bone" by Jennifer McLagan, and "Nose to Tail Eating" by Fergus Henderson, a book entirely devoted to salads was a challenge. I had thoroughly enjoyed Damien Pignolet's "French", however, and so when he released "Salades" it was time to take up the challenge.

The first challenge was ingredients, and specifically ingredients for the wide variety of vinaigrettes described in the book. My larder had never had any need for pistachio oil, banyuls, mostarda di frutta (mustard fruits, or fruit candied in sugar and honey syrup flavoured with mustard oil) or the esoteric vinaigre de cidre aux algues, échalotes et à la fleur de sel (cider, seaweed, eschalot & fleur de sel vinegar). While Cornwell's cider vinegar was perfectly fine for making Stephanie Alexander's peach chutney, it seemed inadequate as the main ingredient of a delicate vinaigrette.

My first task in meeting the "Salades" challenge, therefore, was the purchase of some top-quality oils, vinegars, mustards and other ingredients that I had not previously had on hand.  Two things occurred during that process that prompted this post: first, I spent hundreds of dollars; secondly, by dint of my poor memory and even poorer record-keeping I ended up with 2 litres of verjuice.  A thought bubble said "I need to find the recipes that use verjuice", and it occurred to me that in place of "verjuice" in that thought bubble one could insert the name of any expensive ingredient of which only small quantities would be used in any particular recipe.

And so I have set out below an index to the recipes in "Salades" by reference to various staple ingredients.

[NB:  Perhaps arbitrarily, I have not included olive oil, peanut oil, grapeseed oil or (non-aged) balsamic vinegar, simply because they have sufficient uses as a staple to not warrant my attention in this list.  Equally arbitrarily, I have included mustards despite the fact that they probably have sufficient uses elsewhere.  I have included under Aged Red and Aged White vinegar those recipes that also call for simply red wine or white wine vinegar, as they seem to me sufficiently interchangeable that you could substitute in the aged variety without difficulty.  I have not included under Aged Balsamic vinegar those recipes calling simply for balsamic vinegar as they seem to me to be sufficiently different as to not be interchangeable.]

Aged Balsamic Vinegar

• Bistro Moncur Mozzarella Salad (page 14)
• Salad of Cauliflower, Mushrooms, Baby Beans & Peas with Walnut Oil Vinaigrette (page 17)
• A Simple Tuna Salad (page 50)
• Salad of Pumpkin, Jerusalem Artichoke, Green Olives & Mature Goat’s Cheese (page 172)

Aged Red Wine Vinegar

• Cauliflower, Beetroot & Celeriac Salad with Horseradish Cream (page 2)
• Spinach Salad (page 16)
• Salad of Grilled Vegetables Provençale (page 24)
• Roquefort & Butter Lettuce Salad with Roasted Garlic Chapons (page 42)
• Rustic Salad of Chick Peas, Prosciutto & Preserved Artichoke with Garlic & Anchovy Vinaigrette (page 46)
• Salade Frisée Lardons (page 54)
• Bread & Tomato Salad (page 75)
• Barbecued Rib of Beef Salad (page 83)
• Salad of Chick Peas, Cucumbers & Preserved Lemon (page 109)
• Truffled Salad & Omelette for Two (page 140)
• Warm Salad of Dandelion, Crisp Smoked Speck & Roasted Garlic (page 163)
• Salad of Fresh Goat’s Cheese Fritters, Baby Beetroot & Figs (page 164)
• Salad of Roast Onion, Lentils, Cherry Tomatoes & Radicchio (page 179)

Aged Sherry Vinegar

• Broad Bean, Baby Beetroot, celeriac & White Onion Salad with Walnut Cream Vinaigrette (page 5)
• Salad of Pickled Lambs’ Tongues (page 35)
• Wild Rice & Roast Quail Salad (page 49)
• Salade Mimosa (page 74)
• Salad of Saffron-scented chicken with Rice, Fennel & Grapes (page 92)
• Baby Squid Salad with chick Peas, Fresh Herbs & Hot Smoked Paprika Vinaigrette (page 97)
• Truffled celeriac & Mushroom Salad (page 136)
• Truffled Salad & Omelette for Two (page 140)
• Salad of Quail Eggs, Red Peppers & Toasted Hazelnuts with Foie Gras (page 143)
• Special Birthday Salad (page 145)
• Truffled Egg Salads with Foie Gras (page 149)
• Warm Salad of Roast Squab, Grilled Wild Mushrooms & Bitter Leaves (page 155)
• Warm Salads of Grilled Duck Breast (page 156)
• Winter Salad of Lentils, Celeriac, Mushrooms & Fresh Goat’s Cheese with Parsley Vinaigrette (page 175)
• Confit Duck Leg Salad with Lentils & Fried Walnuts (page 182)
• Salad of Confit Duck Giblets & Duck Skin Crackling (page 184)

Aged White Wine Vinegar

• Leeks Vinaigrette (page 8)
• Broccoli, Fennel & Orange Salad with Pistachio Nut Vinaigrette (page 10)
• Autumn Salad with Mushrooms & Cauliflower (page 12)
• Grilled Red Peppers, Asparagus & Avocado (page 18)
• Salad of Grilled Vegetables Provençale (page 24)
• Peppers à la Toulonnaise (page 27)
• Roasted Tomato with Pistou, Poached Egg Yolk & Fennel (page 28)
• Coleslaw with a Twist (page 58)
• Salade Russe (page 62)
• Florida Salad (page 72)
• Corned Beef Salad (page 79)
• Chicken & Tarragon Mayonnaise Salad (page 88)
• Duck Salad Chinoise (page 95)
• Leg Ham “Sandwich” Salad (page 102)
• Salad of Rice and Green Peas (page 126)
• Baby Beetroot, Green Bean & Celery Salad with Horseradish & Walnut Cream (page 128)
• Truffled Egg Salads with Foie Gras (page 149)
• Salad of Confit Duck Giblets & Duck Skin Crackling (page 184)

Almond Oil

• Broccoli, Fennel & Orange Salad with Pistachio Nut Vinaigrette (page 10)
• Raw Globe Artichoke Heart, Mushroom & Garlic Chive Salad with Artichoke Vinaigrette (page 22)
• Roast Pumpkin, Mushroom & Spinach Salad with Spicy Toasted Almonds (page 106)

Avocado Oil

• Roast Pumpkin, Mushroom & Spinach Salad with Spicy Toasted Almonds (page 106)

Banyuls

• Salad of Grilled Vegetables Provençale (page 24)
• Roquefort & Butter Lettuce Salad with Roasted Garlic Chapons (page 42)
• Mixed Tomato Salad with Olives & cucumber (page 51)
• Salade Frisée Lardons (page 54)
• Salade Niçoise (page 65)
• Salad of Slow-cooked Beef with Bitter & Savoury Greens (page 188)

Cider Vinegar

• Broad Bean, Baby Beetroot, celeriac & White Onion Salad with Walnut Cream Vinaigrette (page 5)
• Raw Cauliflower Salad with Coddled Eggs & Watercress (page 6)
• Salad of Cauliflower, Mushrooms, Baby Beans & Peas with Walnut Oil Vinaigrette (page 17)
• Tuna, Tomato, Celeriac & Fennel Salad with Aïoli (page 101)
• Watercress, Pear & Celeriac Salad (page 110)
• Baby Carrot, Sugar Snap Pea & Celeriac Salad with Pecan Nuts & Toasted Coriander Seed Vinaigrette (page 112)
• Brown Rice Salad (page 129)
• Salad of Fennel, Cucumber & Avocado with Ocean Trout Roe (page 130)
• Salad of Quail Eggs, Red Peppers & Toasted Hazelnuts with Foie Gras (page 143)
• Warm Salad of Roasted Beetroot & Mixed Leaves (page 152)
• Duck Liver Salad with Calvados, Glazed Apple & Grapes (page 160)
• Confit Duck Leg Salad with Lentils & Fried Walnuts (page 182)
• Danish Herring & Potato Salad (page 190)

Cider, Seaweed, Eschalot & Fleur de Sel Vinegar

• Breton Mussel Salad (page 80)
• Mussel, Mushroom & Apple Salad (page 122)
• Warm Salad of Scallops, Sorrel Croûtons & Grilled Red Pepper with Witlof (page 139)
• Little Prawn Nests (page 144)

Cornichons

• Green & Butter Bean Salad with Smoked Leg Ham & Creamy wholegrain Mustard Dressing (page 31)
• Salad of Pickled Lambs’ Tongues (page 35)
• Salade Russe (page 62)
• Salad of Slow-cooked Beef with Bitter & Savoury Greens (page 188)

Crème Fraîche 

• Cauliflower, Beetroot & Celeriac Salad with Horseradish Cream (page 2)
• Broad Bean, Baby Beetroot, celeriac & White Onion Salad with Walnut Cream Vinaigrette (page 5)
• Green & Butter Bean Salad with Smoked Leg Ham & Creamy wholegrain Mustard Dressing (page 31)
• Stephanie Puharich’s Cucumber & Ricotta Salad (page 123)
• Baby Beetroot, Green Bean & Celery Salad with Horseradish & Walnut Cream (page 128)
• Truffled Salad & Omelette for Two (page 140)
• Roast Jerusalem Artichokes, Witlof & Salmon Roe Salad with Crème Fraîche & Chive Dressing (page 171)
• Alex Herbert’s Roquefort Salad (page 176)
• Salad of Cooked Witlof, Shaved celery & Roquefort (page 186)

Dijon Mustard

• Raw Cauliflower Salad with Coddled Eggs & Watercress (page 6)
• Leeks Vinaigrette (page 8)
• Spinach Salad (page 16)
• Salad of Yabbies, Fennel, Celery & Avocado with Hazelnut Vinaigrette (page 39)
• Coleslaw with a Twist (page 58)
• Salade Russe (page 62)
• Green Goddess Salad (page 71)
• Salade Mimosa (page 74)
• Chicken & Tarragon Mayonnaise Salad (page 88)
• Tuna, Tomato, Celeriac & Fennel Salad with Aïoli (page 101)
• Leg Ham “Sandwich” Salad (page 102)
• Truffled celeriac & Mushroom Salad (page 136)
• Little Prawn Nests (page 144)
• Duck Liver Salad with Calvados, Glazed Apple & Grapes (page 160)
• Warm Salad of Dandelion, Crisp Smoked Speck & Roasted Garlic (page 163)
• Salad of Fresh Goat’s Cheese Fritters, Baby Beetroot & Figs (page 164)

English Mustard

• Autumn Salad with Mushrooms & Cauliflower (page 12)
• Smoke Turkey Salad (page 34)
• Corned Beef Salad (page 79)
• Barbecued Rib of Beef Salad (page 83)
• Salade Mimosa (page 74)
• Leg Ham “Sandwich” Salad (page 102)

Hazelnut Oil

• Autumn Salad with Mushrooms & Cauliflower (page 12)
• Salad of Pickled Lambs’ Tongues (page 35)
• Salad of Yabbies, Fennel, Celery & Avocado with Hazelnut Vinaigrette (page 39)
• Wild Rice & Roast Quail Salad (page 49)
• Brown Rice Salad (page 129)
• Truffled celeriac & Mushroom Salad (page 136)
• Warm Salad of Scallops, Sorrel Croûtons & Grilled Red Pepper with Witlof (page 139)
• Salad of Quail Eggs, Red Peppers & Toasted Hazelnuts with Foie Gras (page 143)
• A Delicious Mudcrab Salad (page 147)
• Hazelnut-crusted Queensland Sea Scallop & Cauliflower Salad with Watercress Purée (page 148)
• Truffled Egg Salads with Foie Gras (page 149)
• Warm Salads of Grilled Duck Breast (page 156)
• Warm Seared Scallop, Jerusalem Artichoke & Fresh Herb Salad (page 159)
• Winter Salad of Lentils, Celeriac, Mushrooms & Fresh Goat’s Cheese with Parsley Vinaigrette (page 175)

Horseradish (freshly grated)

• Cauliflower, Beetroot & Celeriac Salad with Horseradish Cream (page 2)
• Barbecued Rib of Beef Salad (page 83)
• Baby Beetroot, Green Bean & Celery Salad with Horseradish & Walnut Cream (page 128)

Mustard Fruit Figs (Mostarda di Frutta)

• Salad of Pickled Lambs’ Tongues (page 35)
• Wild Rice & Roast Quail Salad (page 49)
• Special Birthday Salad (page 145)

Ortiz Anchovy Fillets

• Peppers à la Toulonnaise (page 27)
• Tomato, Cucumber & Grilled Artichoke Salad (page 45)
• Rustic Salad of Chick Peas, Prosciutto & Preserved Artichoke with Garlic & Anchovy Vinaigrette (page 46)
• Coleslaw with a Twist (page 58)
• Salade Niçoise (page 65)
• Vitello Tonnato Salad (page 70)
• Green Goddess Salad (page 71)

Pistachio Oil

• Broccoli, Fennel & Orange Salad with Pistachio Nut Vinaigrette (page 10)
• Chicken Salad with Asparagus, Peaches & Pistachio Nut Vinaigrette (page 84)
• Spiced Chicken with a Lentil & Fresh Herb Salad (page 103)
• Salad of Fennel, Cucumber & Avocado with Ocean Trout Roe (page 130)

Salted Capers

• Warm Pasta & Crab Salad with Chilli & Wild Rocket (page 41)
• A Simple Tuna Salad (page 50)
• Vitello Tonnato Salad (page 70)
• Corned Beef Salad (page 79)
• Barbecued Rib of Beef Salad (page 83)
• Orecchiette with Roasted Tomatoes & Potatoes Tossed in Tomato Juices (page 98)
• Danish Herring & Potato Salad (page 190)

Tarragon Vinegar

• Leeks Vinaigrette (page 8)
• Salad of Pickled Lambs’ Tongues (page 35)
• Coleslaw with a Twist (page 58)
• Salade Niçoise (page 65)
• Tuna, Tomato, Celeriac & Fennel Salad with Aïoli (page 101)

Verjuice

• Raw Mushroom, Globe Artichoke Heart & Fennel Salad (page 21)
• Roasted Tomato with Pistou, Poached Egg Yolk & Fennel (page 28)
• Smoke Turkey Salad (page 34)
• Wild Rice & Roast Quail Salad (page 49)
• Chicken Salad with Asparagus, Peaches & Pistachio Nut Vinaigrette (page 84)
• Salad of Saffron-scented chicken with Rice, Fennel & Grapes (page 92)
• Spiced Chicken with a Lentil & Fresh Herb Salad (page 103)
• Roast Pumpkin, Mushroom & Spinach Salad with Spicy Toasted Almonds (page 106)
• Baby Carrot & Shaved Fennel Salad with Sorrel & Watercress (page 119)
• Mussel, Mushroom & Apple Salad (page 122)
• Wild Rice & Walnut Pesto Salad (page 125)
• Salad of Quail Eggs, Red Peppers & Toasted Hazelnuts with Foie Gras (page 143)
• A Delicious Mudcrab Salad (page 147)
• Hazelnut-crusted Queensland Sea Scallop & Cauliflower Salad with Watercress Purée (page 148)
• Warm Salads of Grilled Duck Breast (page 156)
• Duck Liver Salad with Calvados, Glazed Apple & Grapes (page 160)
• Roast Jerusalem Artichokes, Witlof & Salmon Roe Salad with Crème Fraîche & Chive Dressing (page 171)
• Alex Herbert’s Roquefort Salad (page 176)

Vino Cotto

• Watercress, Cucumber & Orange Salad with Garlic Croûtons (page 132)

Walnut Oil

• Broad Bean, Baby Beetroot, celeriac & White Onion Salad with Walnut Cream Vinaigrette (page 5)
• Raw Cauliflower Salad with Coddled Eggs & Watercress (page 6)
• Bistro Moncur Mozzarella Salad (page 14)
• Salad of Cauliflower, Mushrooms, Baby Beans & Peas with Walnut Oil Vinaigrette (page 17)
• Raw Globe Artichoke Heart, Mushroom & Garlic Chive Salad with Artichoke Vinagrette (page 22)
• Smoke Turkey Salad (page 34)
• Roquefort & Butter Lettuce Salad with Roasted Garlic Chapons (page 42)
• Salade Frisée Lardons (page 54)
• Salad of Watercress, Radicchio & Sliced Pear with Avocado Vinaigrette (page 61)
• Watercress, Pear & Celeriac Salad (page 110)
• Baby Carrot, Sugar Snap Pea & Celeriac Salad with Pecan Nuts & Toasted Coriander Seed Vinaigrette (page 112)
• Wild Rice & Walnut Pesto Salad (page 125)
• Brown Rice Salad (page 129)
• Salad of Fennel, Cucumber & Avocado with Ocean Trout Roe (page 130)
• Warm Salad of Roasted Beetroot & Mixed Leaves (page 152)
• Duck Liver Salad with Calvados, Glazed Apple & Grapes (page 160)
• Winter Salad of Lentils, Celeriac, Mushrooms & Fresh Goat’s Cheese with Parsley Vinaigrette (page 175)
• Confit Duck Leg Salad with Lentils & Fried Walnuts (page 182)
• Salad of Confit Duck Giblets & Duck Skin Crackling (page 184)
• Salad of Cooked Witlof, Shaved celery & Roquefort (page 186)

Wholegrain Mustard

• Green & Butter Bean Salad with Smoked Leg Ham & Creamy wholegrain Mustard Dressing (page 31)
• Salad of Pickled Lambs’ Tongues (page 35)